12805752_10156603419350022_5413004918760286045_n

 

Surfing past dark never seemed like such a great idea to me, yet locals here OBX seem to do it if there’s a good swell, especially in moonlight. Farmers complain of no rain, fishermen complain of no fish, photographers complain about everything, and surfers complain of not quite enough surf. Yet as an innocent bystander it looks to me like the surfers here have a pretty good life. Ok no Tahiti giant reef breaks, yet when the good swells come there’s room for everyone. Breaks all up and down the shoreline because of shifting sandbars. No territorial attitude here as in some surf spots where if you aren’t “approved” by the locals, you aren’t going surfing. I’ve ridden a few waves in my life, yet I never staked a claim as a good surfer. Yet I can safely say there’s no feeling quite like it. Raw natural energy that has traveled hundreds of miles carrying you,speeding you, on a green wall of moving water. Only for seconds. Yet in that short time your mind is 100% oblivious to anything but that wave. It’s meditation.#outerbanks #nagshead #surfing #nightsurfing